The Studio Toolkit

Everything you need to start tufting.

Picking the right tools matters more than picking the best ones. Here is what we use, and what we recommend to every student.

01Tufting gunThe motorised needle that pushes yarn through the primary cloth.
Two types — cut pile and loop pile. Most makers start with a cut-pile gun. We use AK-series tufting guns: industrial-grade, repairable, and balanced for long sessions. Avoid the unbranded clones — they fail in months.
02Primary clothThe woven backing fabric you tuft into.
Look for a polyester-cotton blend rated for tufting (10oz works for most rugs). Stretch it tight on a frame — slack cloth is the most common cause of uneven pile. Buy a generous margin — at least 30cm beyond your design on every side.
03YarnWool, acrylic, and blends — each behaves differently.
New Zealand wool gives the deepest pile and best ageing. Acrylic blends are cheaper and easier to wash but flatten faster. Avoid 100% acrylic for high-traffic pieces. Pre-wind yarn on cones before you start.
04FrameSturdy timber frame with carpet grippers on all four sides.
Build it 30cm bigger than your largest planned piece. Use 5cm × 10cm pine, dovetailed at the corners. Carpet gripper strips along all four edges hold the primary cloth taut — staple them at a 45° angle facing inward.
05Finishing glueWhat seals the back of your rug so the yarn never pulls out.
Spray adhesive is the old way — fume-heavy, expensive, and a nightmare to apply evenly. We developed the ESAR Glue Mixture to replace it. Water-based, non-toxic, and applied with a brush.

The Studio Toolkit

Picking the right tools matters more than picking the best ones. Here is what we use, and what we recommend to every student.

01Tufting gunThe motorised needle that pushes yarn through the primary cloth.
Two types — cut pile and loop pile. Most makers start with a cut-pile gun. We use AK-series tufting guns: industrial-grade, repairable, and balanced for long sessions. Avoid the unbranded clones — they fail in months.
02Primary clothThe woven backing fabric you tuft into.
Look for a polyester-cotton blend rated for tufting (10oz works for most rugs). Stretch it tight on a frame — slack cloth is the most common cause of uneven pile. Buy a generous margin — at least 30cm beyond your design on every side.
03YarnWool, acrylic, and blends — each behaves differently.
New Zealand wool gives the deepest pile and best ageing. Acrylic blends are cheaper and easier to wash but flatten faster. Avoid 100% acrylic for high-traffic pieces. Pre-wind yarn on cones before you start.
04FrameSturdy timber frame with carpet grippers on all four sides.
Build it 30cm bigger than your largest planned piece. Use 5cm × 10cm pine, dovetailed at the corners. Carpet gripper strips along all four edges hold the primary cloth taut — staple them at a 45° angle facing inward.
05Finishing glueWhat seals the back of your rug so the yarn never pulls out.
Spray adhesive is the old way — fume-heavy, expensive, and a nightmare to apply evenly. We developed the ESAR Glue Mixture to replace it. Water-based, non-toxic, and applied with a brush.